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Barsakelmes

The Barsa-Kelmes Salt Marsh, located in Karakalpakstan, Uzbekistan, is a mesmerizing and challenging destination that beckons travelers with its stark beauty and intriguing history. Situated in the arid western region of Uzbekistan, several hours’ drive from Nukus, this expansive salt flat covers approximately 1040 square kilometers, with a length of 50 kilometers and a width of 35 kilometers. Its name, translating to “The Place of No Return,” hints at its harsh and unforgiving nature, with scorching summers and bitter winters adding to its mystique.

The Barsa-Kelmes Depression is the former bed of the prehistoric Tethys Sea, which disappeared from the face of the Earth 30 million years ago, leaving us the opportunity to behold the silence of the Karakum, Kyzylkum deserts, and the Ustyurt Plateau, a flat table rising above the surrounding world.

This is the least studied and most inaccessible place on the plateau. The bottom of Barsa-Kelmes is only 10-11 meters above the bottom of the Aral Sea. And the entire depression is filled with enormous reserves of salt, bequeathed to us from the Tethys Sea. An incredibly vast gray-white-blue expanse, visible to the rare guests of these places – practically pure salt, filling everything around to the visible horizon. Over 70 kilometers in length and almost 40 kilometers in width – such are the dimensions of this gigantic salt reservoir.

Moving through these places is risky. There are often sinkholes and marshes covered with a thin crust of salt. And it is unknown to what depth one can instantly fall. The salt sparkles, shimmers, and resembles more ice floes covering everything around. Small marshes and streams of crystal-clear water further enhance the impression that we are in the icy realm of the Snow Queen.

Recently, salt mining has been carried out here. As the locals say, this reserve will last for a thousand years.

Despite its harsh environment, Barsa-Kelmes is home to a unique ecosystem of halophytic plants and bird species, showcasing the resilience of life in extreme conditions.

Barsa-Kelmes is not only a natural wonder but also steeped in legend and mystery. Stories of a mythical “Shaitan-Kala” or Devil’s Fortress, shrouded in folklore, captured the imagination of early explorers. In the mid-20th century, renowned Karakalpakstan explorer Sergey Tolstov investigated these claims, flying over the marsh in search of the elusive fortress. Despite extensive aerial reconnaissance, no evidence of human activity was found, leading Tolstov to conclude that Shaitan-Kala was a product of natural forces.

Today, Barsa-Kelmes is mainly visited by salt miners and adventurous travelers. Those daring to explore this remote area usually do so as part of a broader itinerary that includes other attractions in the region. The journey to Barsa-Kelmes can be challenging, with the final kilometers requiring off-road driving and the last two kilometers only accessible on foot due to steep, crumbling terrain.

The best time to visit Barsa-Kelmes is in spring or autumn, avoiding the scorching midday heat. Travelers are advised to be cautious and hire an experienced guide, as the marsh’s treacherous swamplands can be hazardous. With proper preparation, visitors are rewarded with surreal landscapes and the opportunity to capture stunning photographs, especially after a light rain when the salt flats glisten even more brightly.

Barsa-Kelmes Salt Marsh is a testament to the resilience of nature in the face of adversity. Its stark beauty, rich history, and challenging terrain make it a captivating destination for those seeking adventure and exploration in Karakalpakstan.

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