Venture five kilometers westward from the bustling heart of Bukhara, where fields adorned with mulberry trees stretch as far as the eye can see, and you’ll find yourself in the presence of one of the most extraordinary landmarks – the Chor-Bakr Necropolis, a city of the departed that transcends a millennium of history. Although the roots of this sacred ground trace back to a small settlement of dervishes a thousand years ago, the mesmerizing architectural ensemble that beckons thousands of pilgrims today took shape in the 16th century.
During the 10th century, under the Samanid dynasty, a venerable family of Djuybar Seyyids, descendants of Prophet Muhammad, played a pivotal role in the life of Bukhara. The humble beginnings of this country cemetery saw the interment of the Djuybars, and it wasn’t until 1560, during the rule of Abdullakhan II of the Shaybanid Dynasty, that the noble family was immortalized with a mosque, madrasah, and khanaka. This grand gesture was a gift to Djuybar Sheikh Muhammad Islam Khoja, the ruler’s esteemed teacher, upon his passing in 1563. The entire complex was completed within the same year.
Muhammad Islam’s son, Khodja Bakr Sadi, joined his father in eternal rest in 1593, followed by other family members like Abu Bakr Fazl and Tojidin Khasan. These four individuals, all bearing the title “Bakr” meaning “brother,” repose together in one khazira, a distinctive tomb structure with a courtyard surrounded by ornate walls and a beautifully adorned entrance. “Chor-Bakr” translates to “Four Brothers,” honoring these revered figures.
The khazira of Djuybar Seyyids, located in the north-western part of the complex, beckons visitors through a corridor where each step reverberates against brick walls, creating a haunting echo of history. Khaziras in the eastern part extend in succession from north to south, while a mosque and khanaka grace the opposite side, set against a picturesque pond. Interestingly, the burial rituals softened over time, transforming Chor-Bakr into the final resting place not only for male dynasty members but also for women.
In the early 20th century, a small minaret reminiscent of Bukhara’s famous Kalyan was added to the complex, expanding the territory to host 30 architectural structures. North of the necropolis lies a venerable garden, planted in the 16th century, boasting poplars, sycamores, willows, and various fruit-bearing trees.
Chor-Bakr stands as an enigmatic and mysterious realm, inviting visitors to feel the whispers of the afterlife. Strolling through the quiet alleys, contemplation naturally settles on the ephemeral nature of existence and the fleeting beauty of human life. In Chor-Bakr, where eternity meets architecture, the boundary between the temporal and the everlasting becomes ever more elusive.