The architectural splendor of Bukhara is encapsulated in the Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble, a majestic complex that tells tales of times gone by. Comprising three grand buildings – Kukeldash Madrasah to the north, a khanaka, and Nodir Divan-begi to the west and east, respectively – the ensemble centers around a reservoir, creating a harmonious balance of structures.
The name “Lyabi-Khauz” translates to “at the reservoir,” and according to an ancient legend, the khan gardener Nadir Divan-begi faced challenges acquiring land for his planned construction due to the presence of a lone woman’s house. In a clever move, the powerful vizier ordered the construction of a channel under the woman’s dwelling, causing the water to erode the walls and compelling the unfortunate woman to sell the lot. The reservoir, colloquially known as the “khauz of violence,” secretly marked the numerical significance of its construction date in the Arabian inscription – 1620.
The khauz itself is rectangular, stretching from east to west and shadowed by venerable chinaras. Its shores boast stair launches to the water, constructed from massive blocks of yellow limestone. In days of yore, a vibrant “tea bazar” graced the surroundings, offering sweets, delicacies, bread, and prepared food.
Dominating the northern expanse of the ensemble is the Kukeldash Madrasah (1568-1569), the largest in Bukhara with dimensions of 80 by 60 meters. Breaking away from traditional designs, this madrasah features well-lit, ventilated hujras with loggias leading to the city streets. The living quarters on the first floor include three-part apartments consisting of an ayvan, housing, and household spaces. Darskhana, adorned with netted décor, showcases four crossing arches that bring in ample light.
On the western side stands the Nadir Divan-begi Khanaka (1619-1620), a magnificent multicell building with a central cupola hall and living hydjras in the corners. Meanwhile, on the eastern flank facing the khauz, the intriguing Nadir Divan-begi Madrasah unfolds its architectural charm. Originally constructed as a caravan-saray, it later incorporated loggias, a portal, and corner towers. The building’s second floor was added over time, creating a captivating structure.
The Lyabi-Khauz Ensemble, with its blend of history, legend, and architectural brilliance, offers visitors a window into the past. As the shadows of the chinaras dance around the reservoir, the stories of bygone eras echo through the intricate designs and the vibrant spirit of this cultural treasure in Bukhara.